American White Oak and Red Oak Qualities & Uses
Oak is one of the most popular hardwoods for woodworking and flooring. It’s strong and attractive, especially when properly finished. There are many species of oak, and lumber from them is sold in two groups, white oak and red oak. Here’s what woodworkers should know about each. (For more on oak’s history and uses, see the legacy of oak.)
American white oak and red oak have some qualities in common:
- Keep your tools sharp and run router bits at appropriate speeds to help prevent burn marks. If burns do happen, you can usually sand them out.
- Oak is hard. Its Janka hardness is commonly listed at about 1,290 pounds-force for northern red oak and 1,360 for white oak.
- Oak is rich in tannins. For centuries, animal hides were tanned using tannins from oak bark.
- Oak can split or chip when routing along the edges because of its pronounced grain, so work patiently.
- Oak’s grain is one of its best qualities, so many woodworkers choose finishes that show it off. Sanding with progressively finer grits gives the best results.
- A pinless wood moisture meter lets you check that your oak has the right moisture content before you build, without leaving pin holes.
White Oak
White oak resists water well. The pores in its heartwood are usually plugged with tyloses, growths that tend to make the wood impenetrable to liquids. That’s why white oak is the traditional choice for tight cooperage, barrels made to hold liquids. Its heartwood also has good decay resistance, so it’s used for boat planking and bent parts of boats, as well as outdoor furniture.
White oak is fairly straight-grained and is a favorite for fine furniture and flooring. It’s often sold quartersawn, which shows off a striking ray fleck pattern.
White oak’s color varies. Boards may be light to dark brown, sometimes with yellow or gray tones. Stain and finish bring out its appearance.
Red Oak
Red oak is widely available, including at most home centers. Many of its uses overlap with white oak’s, but its open pores make it unsuitable for tight cooperage unless the barrels are lined. According to the USDA Forest Service Wood Handbook, red oak is used for:
- Flooring
- Furniture
- Veneer
- Railroad ties, mine timbers, and fence posts (with preservative treatment)
- Pulpwood
- Boxes
- Pallets and crates
- Caskets
- General millwork
- Woodenware
- Handles
Free Download – Is a Pin or Pinless Moisture Meter Best For You?
Red oak has open pores and fairly high shrinkage as it dries, though white oak actually shrinks slightly more. Compared to birch or maple, red oak takes stain easily and is less prone to blotching. Because its open pores absorb stain, the grain pattern stands out when a dark stain is used.
Red oak doesn’t have white oak’s water resistance, since water can enter its open pores more easily. And because oak is rich in tannins, wet oak that contacts iron, such as steel fasteners or steel wool, can develop blue-black stains. If you have red oak flooring, be especially careful not to expose it to standing water.
As Sales Manager for Wagner Meters, Ron has more than 35 years of experience with instrumentation and measurement systems in different industries. In previous positions, he has served as Regional Sales Manager, Product and Projects Manager, and Sales Manager for manufacturers involved in measurement instrumentation.
Last updated on October 8th, 2026
I have a smaller piece of red oak that I have carved into a large spoon. I gave it to my wife and she used it once. I sanded it (I thought thoroughly, it was very smooth) and then coated it with mineral oil. She used it for the first time tonight and washed it, but didn’t leave it in the water. Afterward, I noticed that it feels rougher and needs to be sanded again. Any ideas what I have done wrong? Or have I chosen the wrong piece of wood?
David,
I have noticed the same affect when I wash and dry my wooden spoons. It may be that it needs to cure longer and to wash it by hand. I hope this helps.
the white oak is nice
I need to replace a wooden out door step from the front door . I am thinking I would like to use white oak.
How should I should I finish it so it will stand up to the outdoor moisture?
It would be nice to NOT paint the white oak step, so what is the best way to do this, from start to finish?
Thank you.
Virginia
The only way to properly use untreated wood of any type outside is with the addition of water-repellent preservatives, sealer or paint that contain UV protection.
I have acquired some fresh cut red oak boards that are 1 1/2″ x 7 1/4″ x 10’0″ in size . I am planning on using these to attach to an existing wall to install handrails in a theatre for ada improvements. Currently I have built a rack in the same location where the wood is to be utilized . While on the rack they have spacers of an inch and a half with firm supports both underneath and above with clamps used to hold the support structures in place . I also have a couple of fans , one on each end circulating air around the boards. 3 days ago when I checked the moisture content the readings ranged between 16% – 21%. What would the optimum moisture content be for preparing the wood for plaining , sanding and staining?
Jerry,
What is the average relative humidity in the inside area where these will be installed?
Ron