Working with “Wet” or “Too Dry” Wood: A Sticky Situation

Cutting a piece of flooring

Everyone who has spent time working with wood knows that the moisture levels can vary from piece to piece and from source to source. They also may have seen their wood change after it was delivered to their shop or job site – twisting, cracking, warping and otherwise not retaining its shape or dimensions. When working with wood to create your own projects, this can be problematic. When working with wood flooring, this can be disastrous.

Why does it happen? Wood is a hygroscopic material that absorbs and releases moisture from its environment, and until it is fully sealed, this is an ongoing, never-stopping process. Sawmills and wood product manufacturers invest heavily in monitoring wood’s moisture content (MC) and removing excess moisture from the wood. However, even with their care, once the wood is transported to another location, the moisture cycle of wood will continue to work to try to balance with its environment.

How does that present a problem for the people and professionals who work with wood? Any time MC is too high (or too low) for its use and environment, the end result is put at risk, along with a few other things along the way.

The Stakes of Unknown Moisture Content

First, let’s look at some of the challenges if wood is too “wet” or has a high MC.


Wood that has a high MC level will begin to shrink in all dimensions as it begins to lose that excess moisture. Most impacted, though, is width and thickness. If you have fit wooden floor boards together that have excess moisture, that change in dimension can lead to cupping, gaps, or buckling. Not a pretty sight and, in extreme cases, a safety hazard too.

Tool Wear

Tools for Wood FlooringTrying to put “wet” lumber through a planer, a jointer, a sander or even cutting it with a saw can cause both damages to the tools and danger to you. Wet sawdust or shavings catch on blades and other moving parts and can effectively “gum up” the works inside a machine, or promote rust on metal parts (like knives) and shorten their life spans. High MC wood is also more prone to catching or kick back.

Wood Damage

Wood with higher MC levels is also at risk of additional damage during the working process. Because the wood fibers are, in effect, softened with the additional moisture, tools are more likely to tear or rip the wood instead of cut it. Tear-out, checking, and gouging is more likely on high MC lumber. Even sanding can tear up the surface, rather than smooth it when the wood’s MC level is high. It’s also a must to remember that after the wood dries, the chances of cupping, raised grains, burring or dimensional changes mean the wood may only need to be worked again.

Adhesive Problems

Unless you use glue or adhesive specific to wet situations, high wood MC can mean glued joints do not hold properly over time. If the wood dries after it has been glued, that inevitable shrinkage will put joins at risk as it tries to pull away from the other woods. For furniture joins or glued-down flooring, where use adds stress to the join, this can be disastrous. Moisture can also slow glue curing times.

What about the reverse situation? What if wood’s MC level is too low?


Wood Swelling


Just as drying wood shrinks, wood that is absorbing moisture from its environment will swell in size. While that might cause a tight fit or even a potential split, in some wood projects and in wood floors it can also cause crowning or buckling.


Overly dry wood can be more brittle, meaning nailing, sawing, or other aspects of installing or woodworking can lead to splits, cracks, knot loss and other damage, particularly if working across the grain. Trying to carve or turn overly dry wood can also lead to more splintering on the surface.

Tool Wear

Chisels, saw blades, drill bits, and other tools can also dull tools faster than wood that is at the correct MC for its area and species.

Ultimately, there is a variety of reasons to monitor wood MC, as both levels that are too high and too low can be problematic. How can you tell which is which?

Like many situations, the answer is, “It Depends.”

When Is Wood Wet (or Dry)?

Fresh-Cut-Birch-TreeIf a living tree has just been cut, it’s wet. That’s a guarantee. After that, though, any rule of thumb will be no more than an estimate.

While there are many guides or tables available to help identify the correct MC for a wood species or a geographic region, ultimately MC is best monitored with an accurate wood moisture meter. Even within one geographic region, temperatures and ambient humidity can vary. In interior installations, the operation of the HVAC system will play into wood’s MC levels.

Wagner Meters’ wood moisture meters give you fast, accurate and easy-to-operate assessments of wood MC. Their non-damaging pinless technology even lets you “scan” many board feet of lumber to help identify potential wet spots or changes within wood stock or wood flooring. Once wood or wood flooring is delivered to its job site, a pinless meter lets you easily monitor the changing MC of the wood.

The target, really, is to identify the point when the wood has reached a balance with its environment, a state referred to as equilibrium moisture content or EMC.

The True Target: EMC

Think of EMC as MC in context. The natural give and take in wood with the moisture of ambient humidity will eventually come to a resting state, and that will be the best time to move ahead with the woodworking or the wood flooring installation. And knowing that your wood has reached its EMC will give you the confidence to move ahead with less risk of a project damaged by an MC level that is too high or too low for conditions.

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Tony Morgan

Tony Morgan is a senior technician for Wagner Meters, where he serves on a team for product testing, development, and also customer service and training for moisture measurement products. Along with 19 years field experience for a number of electronics companies, Tony holds a B.A. in Management and his AAS in Electronics Technology.


  1. Mary says:

    My question is about draining and finishing a wet wood,
    What happens if you drain green wet wood will it peel off later as it dries?

    • Tony Morgan says:

      Mary, in all likelihood, there will be problems later on if you stain or paint green wood. Green wood does not provide a good bonding surface for paint and does not allow for stain to properly penetrate into the wood.

  2. Mary says:

    Stain is what I was writing in the previous message

  3. Brad Goodman says:

    What happens if I oil a fresh cut round of hardwood before it dries. 1 week after cutting, just for the sake of looks, no structural use.. just art.

    • Tony Morgan says:

      You can oil green would but only certain oils will actually dry and not just stay a tacky mess for weeks, or months after you oil them. Boiled linseed oil seems to be the oil of choice for green wood, sometimes in a 50% mixture with turpentine. The reason for linseed oil is that it is breathable and will allow the wood to reach equilibrium. The other oils, such as Tung, Danish, or Teak oil, are not breathable, and will never actually dry.

  4. Holly says:

    Hi, I accidentally painted my outdoor porch columns when they were too wet I think? Will it dry out eventually? Should I remove the paint somehow to let it dry first? I live in Louisiana. So, we are pretty humid always. They are yellow pine I think. I put a moisture meter that I got from lows, about $30 cheap pond and it read 100%. Gulp. It is treated lumber and I did let it dry 6 months before painting. It did rain the day before and I wasn’t thinking. I have one column left to paint and am Unsure of how long I should wait to paint it. It won’t ever stop raining here it seems like. The bottom of the column is saying >70% right now, but I need to paint that one too.

    1) Should I remove the paint from the columns that I accidentally painted when I think they were too wet?
    2) I would more sugar content is it safe to paint the remaining cplumb that I haven’t painted yet?


    • Tony Morgan says:

      Since you have already let the pressure treated wood acclimate for 6 months it sounds like you are on the right track. Generally speaking though, you will need at least three days of dry weather before painting any exterior surfaces. Also, with pressure treated wood, a primer is necessary in order for paint to bond to your columns. Make sure to use an exterior primer and that it is compatible with pressure treated wood (all primers are not the same!) and make sure to let it dry properly between coats.

      The inexpensive moisture meter you are using will only give you a very rough, ballpark figure of true moisture content. This is because the chemicals used in pressure treated wood will cause the meter to read abnormally high.

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