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Successful floor repair after failure!

#11
Awwww Yes the old chemical abatement process...I can't really complain as at least 1/3 of my inspections are in schools usually starting bout now through the end of the calendar year investigating and conducting moisture testing after the floor covering has started to prematurely and rapidly dis-bond from the contaminated concrete.

Process:
Contaminate the concrete surface with petroleum or soy mixed with some nasty sodium hydroxide surfactants, then use wax or chlorine based absorbents, then use industrial "Water Based" degreasers in an attempt to neutralize the concrete surface, then more "water" mixed with vinegar or maybe bacon soda in another attempt to neutralize the neutralizer.

Yikes!!!!

Recap:
Sodium hydroxides increases alkalinity to dangerous levels, chlorine (Tide detergent) increases alkalinity to dangerous levels, soy, petroleum and water carrier the sodium hydroxide deep into the concrete, degreasers push it even further with the use of more water.

Summary:
Everything is fine until a non breathable floor covering material is installed causing the concrete slab to reach equilibrium. This creates a massive moisture movement from deep within the slab bringing with it the sodium hydroxide, now some potassium hydroxide and even a little calcium hydroxide all of which will increase the alkalinity to insane levels re-emusifiying everything in their path.

Once the affected floor covering material is removed during the investigation there is always a shiny slick material on the negative side that smells like either soybeans, oranges, oil and or grease, but almost never like the specified adhesive.

The abatement contractor simply states that the concrete must have a moisture problem and he's right as post abatement moisture testing is typically high as is the pH, however that moisture was introduced by you know who!
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#12
(09-28-2011, 02:51 PM)Ernesto Wrote:  Well first off most people are not going to entirely move out of a home so you can come in and powerwash everything including the walls.

You've got furniture, possibly expensive furnishings, paintings/artwork, draperies, moisture sensitive things like books and other floorcoverings to worry about. Not to mention wood doors and casings. It ain't all sheetrock and steel doors and casings like in hospitals.

Secondly people have to live there during the flooring install. They don't like having their lives totally disrupted. In commercial work everyone goes where....home.

Hmmm... In an operating hospital there are patients in the rooms, often that cannot move or can only move for a few hours. They are often sensitive to dust and odors. Their immune systems are often compromised.

As for books, drapes, doors, furnishings...... All of that gets removed. The process will only take a few days and everything has to go. Anything mounted to the walls that cannot be removed will be covered with plastic and sealed.

All doors in hospitals are wood. Except for some fire doors and exterior doors, I'd say 90% of the doors are wood. And they are a lot more expensive than a residential wood door!

So commercial is the same, we just take more time for prep and clearing things out, and we don't get rid of our residents all day while they go to work! Wink
JD Grafton
Concrete Answers for Flooring Problems
[email protected]
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#13
I never reccomend chemical cleaning, good luck to ya.
Stephen Perrera dba
Top Floor Installation Co.
http://www.tucsonazflooring.com
http://www.floorsavior.com
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#14
(09-29-2011, 06:48 AM)Ernesto Wrote:  I never reccomend chemical cleaning, good luck to ya.

I never do either. I said that several posts prior.
I use hot water pressure washing in a process to remove chemicals, fats and oils from the concrete. Often this is after someone used a chemical stripper.
JD Grafton
Concrete Answers for Flooring Problems
[email protected]
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#15
Our preferred asbestos abatement sub uses IR to remove the tiles then they high pressure wash. The chemical strippers are not worth it. Compared to the IR, it is like going from soft to hardwood. Different world.

Speaking of silicates, beware, I know of a few schools where the silicate contamination is SO bad that we are having to HAZMAT all the waste water.

Of course, both of the above in California are so we sub it all out. Not worth the liability risk.
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#16
Hazmat because of the silicates??? Wow.

I know some who collect the water in a tank on a trailer then kind of accidently open the drain valve as they drive away... Saves money on the job!
JD Grafton
Concrete Answers for Flooring Problems
[email protected]
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#17
There are various floor repair adhesive are available in the market so you do need to repair your floor. Before starting repair your floor you have to monitor your loose and hollow ceramic tiles, whether they are really in a condition of repairing as there are many reasons coatings fail to stick to their applied surfaces.
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#18
Floor repair can give the floor a new look again....nice sharing by all...i'm going to repair my floor..this thread really helpful for me..thanks for everything......
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#19
I think before getting your floor repaired you should get it inspected once by home inspectors and only after that you should proceed with your floor repairing and stuff related to that. Home inspectors would inspect your floor and tell you which part of your flooring needs to be repaired how should you get it repaired.
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#20
I have never met a home inspector who can do what is asked. Most home inspectors are just contractors who couldn't cut it.
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